How many components make up your bike? Think about it. Now, which part is the most important? Unless you're very biased, you'll have to admit that most parts, no matter how small, are important to the overall operation. So let's look at just one item – your tires.

Unlike many other components, tires are very responsive to the environment. The internal pressure increases with use (friction) or warm weather. Likewise, it decreases in the opposite situation. But at only one pressure will you get optimal performance. This means checking and adjusting often.

High Quality Tire Gauges are Inexpensive: Get One!

This is not a high-end purchase, but it's an important investment. As you well know, in moto you need every edge you can get and you also know that all these edges are cumulative. So go big! Buy a quality tire gauge.

But aren't they all the same? No, and 2 PSI, or even less, can make a huge difference. So forget about the toy ones that you pick up now and then as promotional items. Those are to get you attention, not to help you win races. Stay away from plastic, go for metal cases.

Temperature = Pressure

Pressure is indexed to temperature. If the temperature your tires is subjected to goes up, so does the pressure inside (this is why it's always a bad idea to throw aerosol cans in a camp fire), and when it goes back down, so does the pressure.

Check and adjust your tire pressure when you get to the track in the morning, and then check it again after a few laps. You might be surprised.

Keep the Funk Out

If you've ever touched the valve pin in your Schrader valve stems, you know how sensitive the little buggers are. So what might you expect to happen if some dirt or other debris got lodged in there during a race or practice run? Psssst! Don't take a chance; Use valve caps with rubbers seals.

A Caveat on Tire Pressure (Hard Surface)

Yes, we've mentioned that you should check your tire pressure often and keep it at the tire manufacturer's recommended PSI. Well, that's true in general, for generic track conditions, but in special cases you do have a bit of leeway to fudge with.

One such case is when the surface is very hard packed dirt. In this case you don't need to bite in so deep as you do in, say, loamy soil, for instance. In this case you'll want to max out the pressure for hard tires.

The exception to this rule is for those of you who ride Pee-Wee's. Your tires should always be kept at high pressure. There's just not enough engine muscle to run soft tires.

Another Caveat on Tire Pressure (Soft Surface)

If you're riding in mud or soft loam, you'll need to run your pressure a little lower than recommended. The under-inflated tires will bite better and be more stable. Keep an eye on it though. If too much mud embeds itself between your knobs, you'll feel like you're playing on a slip 'n slide. Add some more air until the mud slings off.

Suspension and Tire Pressure Work Hand in Hand

Your suspension is one more factor to consider. Generally speaking, it follow the logic that we've been talking about. Pressure has a big effect on how your handling feels. And so, that has a domino effect right into your performance.

For example, low air in the front end will make you compensate by over steering and the back end will feel sloppy. You know the feeling; like when you're going flat? On the other hand, a full inventory of air will make the front end very sensitive to steering and the rear end will respond quite sharply.

The Bead Must Break

No matter how good your tires are, you're going to have a flat sometime. Or, there comes a time when you need to replace the old with the new. Either way, you're going to have to break the bead to get the old tire off. Some are easy, some are stubborn. Follow this advise to make the job a bit easier.

The first thing you'll need is two tire irons. Make sure to get as much air out of the tire as you can. Mash the bead down with the tip of the first iron, If the bead won't break, try standing on the tire's sidewall. Ease the second one between the rim and the bead. Now pry the bead up over the lip of the rim and move down a couple of inches and repeat.

Try Spoon Tire Irons

For best results, use spoon-type tire irons. They'll give you a lot more control than the old-fashioned kind and you stand less chance of pinching a tube. What a hassle that is when time is of the essence.

To make your work easier, use longer irons, 10 inches long or more. Remember that lesson in Newtonian physics from eighth grade in school? Leverage is key.

Turn up the Heat!

You can make heat your ally when changing a tire. A warm tire is much more pliable and expands. Both factors will make your job easier. In cooler weather, set the wheel in your vehicle and run the heater. On a nice warm day, lay it in the sun for twenty minutes or so.

Work in an Upright Position

When you have to change a tire it's important to keep everything as free from debris as you can. That doesn't mean like a hospital room; you just don't want anything between the tube and tire or under the bead.

Seek elevation. Get that wheel off the ground. Work on the tailgate of your truck, on a bike stand, or even a lid-less trash can. Bonus: our back will thank you, too.

Lube Job

Almost any kind of lube will make working with the bead easier – going on or going off. You can buy special tire lube compounds, use soap and water (50:50 ratio), or even spray it with silicone.

Examine Your Rim Lock

Your rim lock must be in good condition. Before replacing the tire is your best opportunity for giving it the once over. Check it for any bare edges that might make for a poor fit. Then be sure that it fits the way it was designed after you tighten it down. If it's not right, change it out.

And Speaking of the Rim Lock

Don't tighten that sucker down too tight. Its purpose isn't to put a death grip on the tire's bead, just keep it snug against the wheel rim.

Don't Install a Deflated Tube in the Tire

It seems like this should be common sense, but how often have you seen riders assemble the tire and wheel with a flat tube inside. Then they give it some air and bounce it on the ground to “even it out”. Then, more air, more bounce. Wrong! You can't be sure all the creases are out.

Before putting the tube in the tire, give it enough air to give it a dough feeling, and then proceed. Now you're cookin'.

Take a Powder

Before putting it all together, sprinkle some baby powder inside the tire and on the outside of the partially inflated tube. This will make for a smooth operation and keep the tube from chafing.

Easy Does It

Don't change tires the morning of the race and then just go out flying. Give it a practice run. One thing to pay attention to is that the tire hasn't slipped on the rim. Before you hop on, mark the tire with chalk opposite the valve stem. Later, look to make sure the mark hasn't moved. If it has, tighten up the rim lock and repeat.

Rotate Your Tires and Save Money

Your tires won't last forever, but you can get more mileage out of them if you flip them over when the wear starts to show. Due to the rotation in the forward direction, the knobs tend to wear unevenly (front VS back of the knob). If you flip the tire over, you'll not only get better traction, you'll get a full 25% more wear out of a set of tires.

Give Those Old Tires New Life

This is just another way to get more bang for your buck. When your tires start wearing, extend the life by trimming the edges using a tire groover or a sharp razor blade. Sure, you'll void your warranty, but if you're at this point, it's gone already!

Don't be a Concrete Show-Off

Don't bother laying rubber on cement starting pads. Think you're impressing anyone? Not likely. If the pad hasn't been swept or you've got debris between the knobs, you might give it a spin or two, but keep it to a minimum. No sense in wasting money.